Sunday, May 19, 2013
Meat Heaven: Chi Spacca
It sort of seems like a no-brainer that the new Batali/Silverton/Bastianich project let by Chad Colby focusing on meats would be amazing, but it is. Located in what is fast becoming a Mozza mini-mall, Chi Spacca is a small space with amazing meat.
Charcuterie plates are beyond cliche these days, but Chi Spacca's sampler is extraordinary. There's copa, one of the best specks I've ever had, two salumis with gloriously large chunks of fat and, my favorite, two country style pates. One pate was pork with pistachios wrapped in bacon. It was smoky and ham-like. The other was a pork liver and kidney pate that was unctuous and livery. This was fantastic stuff.
But the tour de force on the menu I ordered was the beef and marrow pie. A small, but very deep pie of braised beef with a marrow bone stuck in the middle. The braised beef in this pie was black as night with a syrupy thick jus. It was the best of braised meat and soaked beautifully into the flaky, perfectly done pie crust. Eat some of the marrow by itself on bread, but then spread some on the beef and pastry to get an ultra-rich bite. (You may need to use the back end of the spoon to get all of the marrow out.)
There are lots of great things on this menu, including huge steaks and pork chops, that would have been better for a larger crowd, but don't miss that pie.
The wine program was also impressive. Rather than offering bottles, wine is offered from a limited selection by the glass or carafe. Alternatively, they offer three levels of wine pairings, selected to match your particular meal (even though it isn't a tasting menu). We ordered the cheapest one ($25 per person) and were delighted with the diverse choices, which included a sparkling red and a sour beer among the four selections.
If you're a meat lover, this should go on your must-try list.
6610 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90036